|
A GREAT SMOKE, WITHOUT THE NICOTINE
BY SARAH BROBERG
To a non-smoker like myself, the prospect of dining at Smoky Restaurant
was met with a bit of apprehension. But “smoky” is not
a moniker to describe the cozy Maadi restaurant’s interior
atmosphere. Rather it is a way to describe the cooking. The name
derives from the restaurant’s American wood-burning smoker,
which gives the food a truly memorable taste.
Smoky’s has the homey feel of a western family-style eatery:
great natural lighting, sturdy yet aesthetically pleasing wooden
furniture, comfortable cushioning and simple yet tasteful decor.
It took us some time to select from the extensive menu, but for
starters we opted for the clam chowder (£E 11.95) and onion
soup (£E 9.95). We were pleasantly surprised to discover that
the chowder was the real deal, prepared New England-style chock
full of steamed clams and a generous amount of diced potatoes, onions
and clam broth and a dash of green onion to provide a wonderful
briny flavor to the cream-based soup. The onion soup, however, didn’t
quite achieve the French onion label it was striving for. The onions
were sautéed well, but lacked the caramelization that makes
for a really fragrant and rich broth, and the accompanying bread,
although topped with a healthy amount of parmesan cheese, was clearly
not dry enough for ideal dipping.
We fared better with the chicken rolls stuffed with asparagus (£E
15.95), a house specialty. Made from a single chicken breast sliced
into thirds, the rolls were filled with parmesan and an asparagus
spear, then baked until tender and juicy. Finally, the chef smothers
them in a rich and creamy butter sauce, which infuses the chicken
and asparagus creating a scrumptious combination of healthy indulgence.
The poached salmon in hollandaise sauce (£E 52.95) proved
to be a hearty meal. The large fillet was both light and tender,
perfectly poached to preserve the taste and consistency of its savory
pink flesh. The hollandaise sauce was creamy and its unconventional
zesty lemon flavor was a great complement to the salmon. The fish
was served with a side of sautéed vegetables consisting of
fresh carrots, broccoli, zucchini and green beans, as well as long-grain
rice infused with saffron, cardamom and coriander.
The Smoky dinner platter (£E 49.95), our friendly waiter informed
us, is the restaurant’s pièce de résistance.
Traditionally prepared for two, our server said the portion could
be split in half to accommodate just one diner. Even pared down,
however, it was an impressive surf and turf combo complete with
smoked beef, smoked chicken breast and filet mignon – each
in a different sauce – and three butterfly shrimp.
The generous portion of smoked beef was so tender that it literally
melted in the mouth and its succulent wood-smoked flavor made it
some of the best beef we’d ever eaten – and we’ve
tried the best. A dab of honey mustard added flavor to the beef,
but some hickory barbeque sauce might have been more suitable. The
smoked chicken was tender and juicy, and topped with a thick and
rich parmesan sauce. The filet mignon, however, was a bit bland
by comparison, despite being skillfully grilled to order and topped
with a robust brown mushroom sauce. But we could find no fault with
the large fried shrimp, which were garnished with a light red sauce,
minced garlic and parmesan. Accompanied by a side of melted butter
with fresh garlic and chives, they rounded out the platter.
While the main course left us with little room for dessert, we were
intrigued to learn that the co-owner and chef was French-trained
in the culinary arts, including pastries. And so we were tempted
into trying the tiramisu (£E 10.95) and a slice of strawberry
cheesecake (£E 10.95). The tiramisu proved very light compared
to more traditional recipes, but with all the richness of flavor.
As is customary, it had a hint of mocha flavor and whipped cream
separating the layers of cake, which is usually fortified with strong
espresso coffee, but instead had just a dusting of powder on top.
While very good, this tiramisu was perhaps more comparable to spice
cake and in fact we were told by the chef that the original recipe
had to be amended due to Egypt’s shortage of a key ingredient
– triple-cream mascarpone cheese.
The cheesecake proved an exceptionally tasty creation made with
real cream cheese and a dash of vanilla. The crumbly yet firm crust,
with a hint of nutmeg, was a welcome improvement on Cairo’s
usual cheesecake fare. But by this time, we’d realized that
our chef had no intention to aspire for the ordinary.
|
Smoky Restaurant
99 Nasr Street
Maadi
Tel: 705-7277
Hours: 10am-1am daily
|
Submit
your comment
Top
|
