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JOIN THE PARTY
BY CHRISTOPHER HAZOU
The Ramses Hilton hotel in downtown Cairo has revived an old favorite. Reopened after a four-year absence, Falafel is once again a hub of traditional Egyptian cuisine and entertainment for locals and tourists alike. Seating up to 150 people, it’s small enough to feel intimate, yet large enough to facilitate the festive party atmosphere that prevails each night.
The restaurant’s colorful decor is based on traditional Egyptian and Middle Eastern motifs. Vibrant red and blue tapestries adorn the walls and pillars, while the low, circular, golden dining tables are surrounded by comfortable chairs and couches that line the walls. A small performance area sits midway through the room along the curtained windows.
Falafel’s menu consists mainly of traditional Lebanese and Egyptian dishes, divided into soups (lentil and lesan asfour, both LE 26), a dozen or so cold mezze dishes and salads (most LE 19), hot mezze and main courses. Oddly, the restaurant’s namesake isn’t on the menu. Instead, they have finger-shaped taamiya (LE 19).
The main courses include traditional favorites shish tawook (LE 70), kofta and shish kebab (both LE 75), as well as Egyptian specialties such as grilled pigeon (LE 85). Most entrées are served with oriental rice or french fries and vegetables. For vegetarians like myself, the meatless fare, mostly from the mezze section, is all helpfully and clearly identified. Several “healthy options” are also highlighted.
For those not sure where to start, the Cleopatra Menu (LE 250) and Isis Menu (LE 300) provide a selection of hot and cold mezzes, as well as an oriental mixed grill or seafood. The Cleopatra comes with a choice of grilled lamb kebab, kofta and shish tawook, or grilled sea bass fillet for the main course. The more extensive Isis Menu offers a choice between the Deluxe Mixed Grill, which includes lamb kebab, shish tawook, lamb chops and veal liver, or the Deluxe Seafood Platter, consisting of sea bass, shrimp, salmon and calamari. The Isis also comes with more dessert options.
After much contemplation, my dining companion and I decided to order the Isis Menu with the seafood for the main course, in addition to several mezze dishes and selections of meat not included with the Isis.
Things got off to an inauspicious start, as we had to return an orange juice that fell somewhere short of fresh. Our waiter graciously replaced it with a lemon juice that passed muster. Both juices came with a slice of orange topped with a red grape.
Served in small round bowls, the appetizers were a mixed bag. The delectable humus and tangy stuffed vine leaves were high points, but the tabouleh and fattoush were bland and almost entirely lacking in dressing. The spinach fatayer were mouth-wateringly good, with a thin layer of dough encasing a tasty dollop of spinach. Unfortunately, they were slightly small and only two were included. The cheese sambousek were filled with blue cheese, which, while unexpected, worked well.
My companion, and designated carnivore, sampled the generous portions of meat and fish. Much like the mezze, it was largely hit or miss. While the liver “melts in your mouth,” the kofta was too spicy. The marinated grilled sea bass fillet was deemed to lack flavor and needed salt, while the juicy and flavorful salmon was a particular standout. The rice was lightly spiced and perfectly cooked.
For dessert we tried the Om Ali (LE 26), a traditional Arabic bread pudding with nuts, and the crème caramel that comes with the Isis Menu. While the Om Ali was not particularly special, the crème caramel was. Creamy and divine, it was a treat for anyone with a sweet tooth. The dessert cart is rounded out by a variety of oriental pastries (LE 26) and eish al saraya, a traditional bread pastry (LE 26).
Food aside, the highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the boisterous live performance, which begins nightly at 10pm. The show features a traditional Egyptian band, bellydancer, whirling dervishes and troupe of enthusiastic performers. If you don’t want to risk becoming part of the performance during the audience participation segments, you might want to sit near the back. On this night, several audience members were coaxed on stage for an enthusiastic, if somewhat awkward, shaking of the belly. The energetic main event was followed by a small, four-piece traditional Arab band.
On service too, Falafel scores big points. After arriving for our 10pm reservation 25 minutes late, staff were extremely patient as we slowly picked our way through our meal, long after everyone else had left. Alone we sat, serenaded by the band until we walked out the door, 20 minutes after closing time – and without ever feeling pressured to hurry.
Whether indulging in a romantic dinner for two or a large party, Falafel provides a lively taste of traditional Arab culture delivered with abundant hospitality.
Falafel
Ramses Hilton Hotel
1115 Corniche Al Nil Downtown, Cairo
Tel: 2577-7444
Open daily from 7pm to midnight
(Reservations required)
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