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POOLSIDE LEBANESE
BY GEOFFREY CRAIG
The pool at the stately Four Seasons hotel in Giza, nestled high up between the marble facades of the hotel and residence, has always been an attraction. The opening of a new poolside Lebanese restaurant last month provides one more reason to visit.
Airy and chic, Aura provides a more relaxed alternative to the hotel’s upscale establishments. Just don’t expect a Nile view. The only water you’ll see is in the hotel pool. But you will be able to enjoy a nice breeze when the weather turns warm and the windows and doors are removed – giving the restaurant an open-air feel.
Aura’s sleek interior thankfully dispenses with the clichés that often plague restaurants serving foreign cuisine. Designers, instead, chose a minimalist decor. The earth tones, Sambonet flatware and soft edges add a modern touch.
With that in mind, the menu was surprisingly traditional. Falafel, mixed grill, stuffed vine leaves and rotisserie chicken sound rather pedestrian. But if you love Lebanese food you’ve probably come looking for these well-known dishes. And there’s no reason why modern design can’t mix with traditional fare.
You’ll want to start with some mezze, even if you’re just looking for a salad, because none of the main courses come with side dishes. There are eight hot and 12 cold mezze to choose from, and selecting an assortment is the best way to get the flavor of a traditional Lebanese meal.
The tabouleh (LE 18) and fattoush (LE 18) were fresh and lively, with the right balance between lemon, oil and parsley. The grilled halloumi cheese (LE 39) had a wonderful texture, but the sambousek (LE 32) didn’t have the crisp fried outside and warm cheese inside I was hoping for. It came across a bit doughy.
The babaghanoug (LE 18), another Lebanese favorite, was pleasant, but lacked a bold flavor. The amount of oil was just right, but a bit more garlic in this eggplant puree would have added a nice kick.
There are also two types of wood oven “pizzas.” They are listed under the appetizers, though they’re quite big and could be a main dish. One has lamb, but I tried the Manakesh bil Gebnah (LE 35), which is topped with black sesame seeds and akkawi cheese – a white, soft cheese similar to istambouli. The saltiness of the cheese left a strong, memorable impression on the palate.
There are a dozen main courses, although the strict vegetarian will be disappointed because each dish has chicken, beef or fish. The Shish Barak (LE 75), a house specialty, is an unusual dish consisting of tortellini stuffed with minced veal and covered with yoghurt sauce. The mild yoghurt compliments the deliciously spicy veal, though the combination of meat and dairy makes this a somewhat heavy dish. That’s fine on a chilly winter’s night, but probably best avoided in summer.
That said, the management indicated that the menu would be updated when summer arrives. The restaurant will also provide entertainment, with a bellydancer and takht performances nightly during the summer months.
Suitable for any season, the Samakah Harrah (LE 140), another Lebanese favorite, showcases the fish of the day seasoned with garlic and coriander, and covered in a spicy tomato sauce and walnuts. In this case, it was fresh sea bass.
Perhaps I’m against this dish in principle. Why does fresh sea bass need anything more than a dose of seasoning? There was a lot to enjoy about the zesty tomato sauce, but it seemed to be stealing the show. And that’s a shame, because underneath was a tender filet of sea bass that tasted as fresh as anything you’ll find in Alexandria.
There are six dessert options, though only the konafa and baklava could properly be described as Lebanese. Other choices included Apple Crumble Tart and Strawberry Millefeuille.
The desserts tried hard to be sophisticated, with offerings such as Cheese Konafa (LE 32), presented artfully with a swirl of saffron and fig reduction, but it might have been better if they stuck to the basics. The Lemon Meringue Pie with Citrus Salad (LE 32) was simple, and delicious. Its smooth consistency and rich flavor would please any sweet tooth.
If you’re the type that enjoys a shisha after your meal, you can also indulge in a waterpipe. There are eight different flavors to chose from, including some exotic ones, such as rose and sweet melon.
Aura works nicely as a lunch venue or an after-work spot for colleagues and friends. It does a good job of presenting traditional food in a comfortable setting amid the opulence of a five-star hotel.
Aura
Four Seasons at First Residence
35 Giza Street
Giza
Tel: 3573-1212
Open daily from 11am to midnight
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