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COLD FUSION
BY DEENA OMAR
Sushi might not be traditional Egyptian cuisine, but judging by the number of restaurants serving it, it is certainly a part of contemporary Egyptian culture. The number of sushi lovers is growing so fast that local restaurants can hardly keep up with the demand. Even coffeehouses and supermarkets are now offering raw fish concoctions to satisfy cravings.
What sets the Mori Sushi chain apart is its fusion of traditional and contemporary elements. The Brazilian franchise has two busy outlets in Sao Paulo, but its innovative sushi creations have proven even more popular in Egypt, where it recently opened its fourth branch.
The newest outlet in Heliopolis has indoor and outdoor seating. Its indoor section, tucked away inside a glitzy clothing store, is a bit claustrophobic and noisy. The tiny air-conditioned alcove with a sushi bar and five small tables is best suited for those who insist on seeing their sushi prepared in front of them.
More relaxed and stylish is the spacious outdoor patio area, which seats up to 35 comfortably. The design is contemporary, with about a dozen black tables set in a tidy garden of cacti and small palms. Comfortable black vinyl sofas are ideal for groups planning to take their time sampling the sushi. Smaller tables are more suited for couples.
Light jazz and lounge music play at a comfortable level, but not loud enough to drown out the street noise – which at times becomes distracting. A few well-positioned shrubs would help to block out the sight of traffic zipping by on the busy thoroughfare behind the restaurant.
Spot lighting complements the table arrangements and allows you to read the luminous lime green menu, which deserves kudos for its photos of the various dishes – an invaluable resource for novice sushi eaters. I started with the Noodles Soup (LE 16), a light broth with noodles, thinly sliced capsicum and chicken flakes – and quite possibly the only non-sushi item on the menu. The soup was chock full of vegetables, but the slippery noodles evaded capture by spoon or chopsticks. The prawn crackers accompanying it were a bit greasy and very filling.
Mori Sushi specializes in innovative sushi and sashimi rolls. But innovation is a double-edged sword. While many of these “fusion” creations are truly memorable, sometimes it is for all the wrong reasons. For example, the Acelga Sake & Ebi (five pieces, LE 39), a clump of rice with salmon and shrimp paste inside a sheath of wilted lettuce, seemed a pretentious attempt at novelty with no added value. The taste and texture of the soggy lettuce proved a distraction to the otherwise wonderful salmon and shrimp paste.
The Curi Maki New Style (five pieces, LE 51), a bizarre construct of sashimi rolled in cucumber with sesame sauce, was even more awkward. The hard cucumber shell was not only hard to grip with chopsticks, its crunchy garden flavor overpowered the delicious seafood inside. In the end, my dining companion unrolled the curi maki and we tucked into the fresh salmon, shrimp, crab and tuna sashimi filling.
Despite these menu misfits, we both agreed that the Kiwi Rainbow Roll (eight pieces, LE 55), a fresh addition to Mori’s menu, was an undeniable winner. The sticky rice roll filled with eel and crab might have gone without mention, but the slice of kiwi fruit wrapped partially around its outer rim provided a startling tangy contrast. The tasty rolls, which disappeared fast off our plate, were developed in Brazil. Another variation made with mango sounded equally delicious.
Also new to the Mori Sushi menu is the Pink Panther (eight pieces, LE 46), the Cadillac of maki rolls with shrimp tempura, avocado, crab paste and salmon topped with mayo and a dab of hot sauce. Not everyone can handle these big boys in one bite, but if you do manage your palate will be assaulted by a barrage of rich flavors. The pinch of hot sauce is just enough to excite your taste buds without sabotaging the flavors of the seafood.
Next up was the octopus Audo & Sato Roll (one piece, LE 14), a strip of tuna sashimi stuffed with boiled octopus and cucumber strips. The roll came bound with a strip of nori (seaweed) and topped with a small clump of salmon caviar. It was full of pleasant contrasts. The chewy octopus played well with the crunchy cucumber, and I enjoyed the caviar, which was firm yet fragile.
The undeniable star of the evening was the shrimp tempura Audo & Sato Roll (one piece, LE 14), a similar design stuffed instead with shrimp tempura, mushrooms and chives. The roll literally melted in the mouth, leaving taste buds begging for more of its creamy mushroom flavor.
Hot sushi may not sound like a good idea, but Mori’s Hot Roll Tempura is definitely worth a try – and not just for the novelty. We sampled the Mono Sake & Ebi (eight pieces, LE 56), a mixture of salmon, shrimp and cream cheese in – and here’s the twist – a battered and deep fried roll. The warm, creamy filling caught me offguard, but the roll was flavorful, if a bit salty.
Overall, service was not this branch’s strong point. The staff were friendly, but could have been more attentive. At times it seemed our waiter had completely forgotten us, though the restaurant was not even half full.
Presentation, however, was top notch. All selections, artistically crafted, were presented on minimalist dinnerware with a side of gari (pickled ginger), wasabi (Japanese horseradish), and a colorful bed of flower-cut cucumber and shredded white radish. It was, quite literally, edible art.
Mori Sushi (Ego)
22 Orouba Street
Heliopolis
Tel: 012-297-5555
Open Sat.-Wed. from 2pm to midnight,
Thu. and Fri. from 2pm to 1am
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